State park near Sioux Falls serves as ‘oasis’ for rock climbers of all abilities

Eastern South Dakota isn’t known for its rock climbing, but a well-loved state park near Garretson is becoming a paradise for experienced or new rock climbers as the sport gains popularity.

Split Rock Creek cuts through Palisades State Park, lining the waterway with Sioux quartzite shelves ranging from just feet above the water to 50-foot cliffs. Geologists estimate the spires are 1.2 billion years old.

There are 260 rock climbing routes along the creek, said Jeff Johnson, a climbing guide for Sylvan Rocks Climbing School and Guide Service.

Sylvan Rocks is based in the Black Hills, where rock climbing is more popular as a sport and tourist attraction. Johnson is the sole rock climbing guide for the organization in eastern South Dakota.

“It’s a little oasis in the middle of the prairie,” Johnson said. “We have a cool, smaller canyon that cuts through what is otherwise cornfields. The way the rock fractures, you have a lot of climbing in a relatively small area.”

There are even routes where climbers can dangle over the river, which is unique for climbers anywhere, Johnson said.

The 36-year-old grew up in Sioux Falls, graduating from Washington High School. Johnson learned about rock climbing while working with the YMCA’s Leif Ericson Day Camp climbing course more than a decade ago. Now, he’s a science teacher at Washington High School.

But he tries to get out and climb whenever he can, usually bringing along groups interested in exploring the state park from a different view.

Climbing is becoming a popular sport in the Sioux Falls area, with indoor climbing gyms opening such as Frontier Climbing and Fitness or Climberz in Tea. The emerging Great Plains Climbing Coalition is also a group dedicated to taking care of climbing areas such as Palisades State Park by cleaning up the area and promoting the sport.

Johnson is able to take children as young as 5 years old out on climbing expeditions at the park, with adult supervision. The oldest person he has taken was 80.

The climbing experience can be four or six hours long. Four-hour sessions offer a “Discover Climbing Day” for new climbers or those transitioning from indoor climbing. A six-hour day can be customized to what the climbers are interested in learning and tackling. Johnson can move more freely throughout the park with a six-hour day and being limited to one area during a four-hour day.

One person climbing for four hours is $150, and in a group of up to six people, it’s $110 per person. One person climbing for six hours is $275 and $200 per person in a group of up to six people. All climbing gear is provided.

“My goal is to have people climb as much as possible while having as much fun as they can,” Johnson said.

Climbing with a guide is important, Johnson said, because the person helps mitigate risk and offers expertise in the area. Johnson and all guides with Sylvan Rock are trained and certified. The organization is accredited by the American Mountain Guides Association.

It’s common to see children and adults scrambling on rocks throughout Palisades State Park, simply wanting to get their hands and feet on the rock. While hiking through the Palisades is more common than climbing, the sport allows climbers to challenge themselves and experience a fun and relaxing way to spend time with friends and family.

“Rock climbing is a way to experience the Palisades and parks that you wouldn’t be able to otherwise,” Johnson said. “You connect with it in a way that you can’t just driving or hiking through.”