Skin care trends: What to try, what to skip

This piece is sponsored by Avera Health.

If your goal in the new year is to get your skin looking healthier, you might be wondering where to start. Countless gadgets, masks and creams promise clear, youthful, glowing skin. But who wants to spend a lot of time and money on stuff that might get results?

Dr. Bo Wang and Mackenzie Kasten of Avera Dermatology are here to share what’s worth the hype and what you should pass on. Take note, these recommendations don’t take into account the cost of the products.

Generally, Wang said to be wary of products that overpromise. “Pause whenever something seems too good to be true,” Wang advised. “Prime examples are topical creams that claim to erase cellulite or stretch marks.” These products tend to be overpriced, overpromise results and underdeliver in outcomes.

Red light therapy masks

Benefits: With consistent use, red light therapy masks can reduce inflammation of the skin and mildly stimulate collagen production.

Drawbacks: “My biggest concern is eye safety,” Kasten said. “Take precaution by shutting your eyes or using eye protection such as those used in tanning beds.” Bonus skin hack: Avoid tanning beds! In addition, home use doesn’t offer regulations, so you’re responsible for proper use.

Verdict: Worth it.

Final thoughts: “Along with red light, different colored lights have different wavelengths that target different skin concerns,” Kasten said. “Cheaper masks, though helpful, offer weaker wavelengths, so higher-end masks with stronger wavelengths typically offer better results.”

Face masks

Benefits: “When you use a face mask, the active ingredients stay in close contact with the skin for longer periods of time,” Wang said. “This allows for better absorption than your daily products.”

Drawbacks: The results are temporary and not a long-term solution or replacement for daily skin care.

Verdict: Worth it.

Final thoughts: For various skin concerns, Wang recommends these face masks:

• Dry skin – choose hydrating masks containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin or aloe.
• Oily or acne-prone skin – choose masks with salicylic acid, mud or clay, or charcoal.
• Uneven tones or aging – choose masks with vitamin C, peptides, collagen or niacinamide.

Facial exercises

Benefits: Facial exercises may improve blood flow to the face and strengthen face muscles.

Drawbacks: Repetitive movements could heighten the appearance of wrinkles.

Conclusion: Not worth it.

Final thoughts: “Because of the risk of wrinkles, facial exercises aren’t a strategy against anti-aging,” Kasten said.

Pore vacuums

Benefits: No proven benefits.

Drawbacks: These interesting devices may damage the skin by leaving bruises or disrupting the skin barrier. A strong suction also can cause inflammation.

Verdict: Not worth it.

Final thoughts: “For stubborn blackheads or large pores, consider salicylic acid, chemical peels, retinoids or professional extractions,” Wang said. You can consult a dermatologist for these procedures.

Skin brushes

Benefits: “Dry brushing the skin helps exfoliate dead skin cells from the surface, prevent ingrown hairs by preventing clogged pores and boost circulation to the skin, giving a rejuvenating effect,” Kasten said.

Drawbacks: You must moisturize afterward, otherwise your skin will be drier than before. Also, aggressive movements may irritate or break open your skin.

Verdict: Worth it.

Final thoughts: Get the most benefit through consistent practice and a gentle touch while also following up with a moisturizer. Also, do not brush skin that is already broken by eczema, a rash or any other skin issue.

Gua sha and jade roller

Benefits: Gua sha scrape therapy and jade rollers can reduce puffiness.

Drawbacks: Don’t expect major, long-term results in lift or fat reduction in the face. Also, forceful movement across your skin can run the risk of broken capillaries and bruising.

Verdict: Worth a try.

Final thoughts: Do not gua sha or jade roll skin that is already affected by eczema, a rash or another skin issue.

Pimple patches

Benefits: Pimple patches prevent picking as well as bacteria from entering the acne site.

Drawbacks: It is not effective for deep, hormonal acne. Also, it doesn’t cure the root cause of acne, which could be excess oil, dead skin, bacteria, etc.

Verdict: Worth a try.

Final thoughts: “Look for hydrocolloid as the active ingredient,” Wang said. “These are best for acne that show up with a visible white center.”

You still need a good skin care routine

The truth is, you might not need any of the fancy things above. If you’re interested in new products, try one thing at a time to see how your skin reacts and adapts.

“Cleansing and moisturizing your face twice a day along with sunscreen should be the bare minimum for skin care,” Kasten said. Here are the steps of a simple routine:

1. Cleanser
2. Toner
3. Serum
4. Acne medications/creams
5. Lotion
6. Sunscreen

Always apply products from thinnest to thickest, with time between each to allow the product to absorb. Also, seek out products with simple ingredient lists.

“Sometimes less is better,” Kasten said. “Don’t overcomplicate or overwhelm your skin. Just slowly find what works for you.”

Get more wellness tips at Avera.org/Balance.